Those 'nang kwak' goddesses that summon shoppers with a gesture open their own restaurant.

When Sakarin Krueon set up 200 beckoning nang kwak statues as part of an art exhibition two years ago, Pongchai Chindasook liked the idea so much he built a restaurant around it.

The walls at Nang Kwak - at Pongchai's boutique mall Third Place on Soi Thonglor 10 - are decorated with 300 figurines in bone china, specially commissioned from Sakarin.

"You often see nang kwak in the little shrines in shops where the owner is hoping it will help business," says Pongchai of the little figures with a hand raised in summons.

"When I saw a whole army of them in Sakarin's show, it was very powerful. I wanted these nang kwak to use their power to bring in customers and give my bistro a gallerylike feel."

Also on view are a highrelief sculpture of the Lord Buddha by Panya Vijinthanasarn and a 10head¬ed elephant by Apichai Piromrak, as well as art from Pongchai's private collection.

And Pongchai and Thavorn Koudomvit, who owns the Ardel Gallery of Modern Art on Bangkok's outskirts, have set up Ardel's Third Place Gallery next door.

With indoor seating for 60 and room for twice as many on the patio, Nang Kwak serves Western dishes created by UStrained chef and food stylist Karn Kittidej.

The recommended appetisers are teasmoked duck breast and crispy bacon tossed with garden greens, orange and raspberry vinaigrette, and a fried goat cheese salad. Each costs Bt280.

Among the entrees are deepfried, spicedusted chicken wings tossed in spicy red wine and rosemary glaze for Bt150, and a grilled Chilean seabass fillet with Thai mango and apple salad and corn salsa for Bt590.

For dessert, don't miss the aromatic and creamy tiramisu for Bt180.

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Come hungry

Nang Kwak is at the mouth of Soi Thonglor 10 off Sukhumvit Soi 55 and open weekdays from 11 to 2 and 5 to midnight and weekends from 11 to midnight. Call (02) 714 7938 or visit www.ThirdPlaceBangkok.com.