DAY OUT
Temples with secrets

By By Pornwara Khongraktee
Special to Daily Xpress
Published on June 27, 2008

Two famous characters from Thai literature leap off the pages in Suphan Buri, a province with more to offer than you may think

You might be surprised to hear that the characters Khun Chang and Khun Pan from Thai literature can be traced to two modest Buddhist temples in Suphan Buri province.

Wat Palalaiworawihan tells the stories of Chang and Pan in its elaborate murals.

Pan the sorcerer

Many locals believe that Pan was a monk at this temple before moving on to study magic at nearby Wat Kae. There, legend has it he learned how to transform tamarind leaves into wasps and open locked doors without a key - a handy trick that won him many lovers.

Chang the lover

His rival in romance was Chang. They both loved the beautiful Pimpilalai. Visitors to Wat Kae usually take the side of Chang, the more faithful of Pimpilalai's suitors.

This tale was among many told to 26 journalists last Saturday during a trip to Suphan Buri arranged by Bangchak Petroleum Co.

Wat Palalaiworawihan offers visitors lots of opportunities to improve their luck. Here, the devout put coins in monks' bowls, stick gold leaf onto Buddha statues and seem to raise a heavy metal elephant with one finger.

"Many people come here just to ask for their wishes to come true," complained the abbot. "Few learn about morality."

In the temple, more than 50 people were bowing before a massive golden Buddha image that almost reached the ceiling.

The abbot explained how the  body of the Buddha image teaches morality. "Every knot of his hair refers to problems in human life. These problems must be solved with wisdom."

Paintings of Chang and Pan which line a hallway in the monastery show everyday scenes during the Ayutthaya period including Thai-style houses by the river, chicken coops and children in traditional costume.

About 20 minutes away by car, at Wat Khae in the district of Ruangyai, is Pan's old home. Inside the traditional teak house is built on stilts, people played Thai music and sold local specialities like honey, salted eggs and toddy-palm seeds in syrup.

Lunch at the nearby Kruang Supan floating restaurant came as a feast of local flavours:  creamy simmered crabs, deep-fried greens and spicy fish salad, spiced up and fiery. Not far away is the Samchuk market, another taste of local life.

Over a century old, it offers intriguing antiques including bronze bedpans heated by charcoal, pillows stuffed with tea leaves for deeper sleep and coconut fronds fashioned into grasshopper sculptures.

"Changes to the market can only be made with the whole village's cooperation," said  Kritaya Sermsuk, a trader.  Everyone, she added, knows that they have an important role in preserving the market's age-old ways."

XTRA

Ancient stories

>> Wat Kae, in Suphan Buri town on the west bank of the Tachin River, is open daily, 7 to 5. >> Call (035) 522 725 or

(035) 545 687.

>> Wat Palalaiworawihan,

on Malaiman Road, a short drive west out of town, is open daily from 7am to 5pm.