Behind the colonial grandeur of Vietnam's laid-back hill station lurks the hallucinatory power of the 'Crazy House'

Dalat, also known as the City of Eternal Spring, blooms 1,500 metres above sea level in a valley in south-central Vietnam. Its French colonial architecture set against mountains is much sought-after as a romantic backdrop for weddings and honeymoons, and couples are drawn here from all over the country.

The 320 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City take a minimum of four hours by road. You can ditch the car once you arrive, though, as Dalat's attractions are all easily accessible by foot or bicycle.

Emperor Bao Dai, Vietnam's last dynastic ruler, built several villas here in the last century. The 26-room Summer Palace located on Le Hong Phong Street is one of them, and a top draw for its original 1930s period furnishings still in good condition. Visitors are asked to take their shoes off, or don bag-slippers, to protect the palace's delicate wooden floors.

Picturesque Xuan Huong Lake in the city's centre is ringed with architecturally unique villas. Dominating its shore is another old palace, set in lush gardens shaded by tall pine trees. Built in 1922 and now known as the Sofitel Palace, this hotel has retained all the grandeur of its French colonial origins, with huge fireplaces, mosaic floors, antique Grandfather clocks and more.

Some guests say it's worth a visit to Dalat just to stay here. The town centre's other attractions - the Dalat Museum and the Catholic Church among them - aren't far away.

A bike ride is a great way to discover the dilapidated villas that line Tran Hung Dao Street. Most of these have gone untouched for decades and badly need repairing. The doors are locked, but visitors can still walk around the compounds for a close-up look at the faded facades. They come complete with fine architectural details rarely seen these days.

A handful have been restored and are residences for the rich again just like the old days. What's missing is a tour guide to tell you stories behind all these old colonial mansions - the authorities should take note.

Another highlight on any tour of the architectural splendours of Dalat is Hang Nga's Tree House, a hotel better known locally as the "Crazy House". This weird-looking building is owned by the daughter of a former president of Vietnam and is the fruit of her architecture studies in Moscow. The House blends Gaudi, Disney and Vietnamese styles in a fantastic construction that resembles a grove of trees, with the rooms situated in the concrete "trunks". It doesn't look very comfortable, though it manages to attract a stream of guests, who stay in unique rooms, each created with a different theme taken from nature.

Given the jaw-dropping impact, its not surprising that the Crazy House rivals Dalat's more historic structures as a landmark in the town.

xtra

Get on your bike

>> The Summer Palace is on Le Hong Phong Street and open

7-11am and 1.30-4pm.

>> The Dalat Museum is on Hung Vuong Street and open Monday through Saturday, 7.30-11.30am and 1.30-4.30pm.

>> The Hang Nga Crazy House is on Huynh Thuc Khang Street.