While other Thai provinces along the Andaman Sea attract herds of visitors, quiet Ranong remains lost in a gentler era

Ranong, for many years, had nothing to write home about. A few hungry travellers stopped there to fill up at Chinese-bun stalls, only to speed away in search of more promising signs of life and a bed for the night in Krabi or Phuket.

That's starting to change, as the nondescript town starts, finally, to capitalise on its beautiful nature and pristine beaches along the Andaman Sea.

Small and lovely boutique resorts have been established, historical sites and buildings restored and many seafood restaurants opened.

The transformation is noticeable in Khao Niwet mountain. Here, on a green knoll, perches Ratanarangsan Palace, overlooking a cluster of small neighbourhoods.

Made of hard wood, the palace sheltered three kings of Siam - Rama V, VI and VII, who visited the small town of Ranong from the 1890s onwards.

"The original structure was established as a residence for King Chulalongkorn, who visited Ranong in 1890," says our guide. "Unfortunately, it didn't last long

because its

wood was destroyed by termites."

The second palace was built of concrete in a Sino-Portuguese style, which was eventually knocked down.

Ratanarangsan Palace has a look and style of traditional Thai and Burmese architecture, with multi-tiered roofs and small, elegant details in the woodwork. The palace's two main buildings are connected by a long wooden corridor. Attractions here include a throne hall and a pavilion.

The palace houses old pictures and the antique furniture, showing what luxurious - and adventurous - travel was like in the days of King Chulalongkorn, who, en route to Bangkok from Chumphon, negotiated the rainforests of Ranong by elephant-back.

"The view of the town and nature is marvellous from the corridor," King Chulalongkorn wrote in his travelogue. "I was supposed to stop over at Ranong for just two nights, but ended up spending three in the charming, hospitable town ."

Fast forward to 2008, and although the corridor and pavilion are modern structures which replaced the prettier old versions, the area retains its beauty.