The To-Sit and Raan Kinduem brands of informal, consumer-friendly Thai dining are branching out, and managing director Tosit Visalset has lots of plans for even more expansion.

In the dramatic setting of To-Sit Pier 92 right on the Chao Phya River, you can enjoy the range of dishes that have made the brands so popular with the young office workers.

All ingredients are local wherever possible, says Tosit (you pronounce his name "Toh-Sit", but his restaurant chain "Too-Sit"). Soft-spoken, with a quiet sense of humour, Tosit has instructed all his chefs to prepare dishes the traditional Thai way, but, since he has a passion for salmon, he's added a bit of fusion, just to please his own palate.

At the same time, his love of the fish seems to be pleasing diners too. To-Sit's rocket salmon (Bt160), for instance is a very fine starter, or the spicy salmon in fish sauce (Bt180), or even somtam pla salmon (Bt120).

If you're not interested in salmon, there are lots of other meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes to choose from. You can order som-tam with fluffy-fried pla kra pong (Bt180), a different sort of take on yam pladook foo, or any of the other variations on the dish, such as a very tasty grilled pork and spicy apple salad (Bt100), where green apples are substituted for papaya.

To-Sit offers a wealth of "traditional" dishes as well. Deep-fried grouper topped with a fresh pepper sauce (Bt280) is a great dish for sharing, as is the deep-fried morning glory topped with shrimp in a red curry sauce (Bt200).

To-Sit Pier 92, seating close to 900, offers the greatest space for private parties, but you can find other To-Sit and Raan Kinduem branches throughout Bangkok.

Tosit has just opened To-Sit Kad Farang near the antique market in Chiang Mai, and a restaurant is under consideration in Phuket.

Along with franchising opportunities (the first franchise opened in Town-in-Town last year), To-Sit offers snack boxes and meal boxes ordered in bulk.

Wine is available at To-Sit Pier 92, but only by the bottle. Prices start from Bt750.

By Laurie Rosenthal

Sunday Xpress